Last month we investigated the different types of Lungeing and some of the positive and negative attributes inherent with each. This month we will discuss more in depth Lungeing the horse on the Lunge Line with Side Reins. To help you get started we will cover facts concerning when and why you may want to Lunge your horse, the necessary equipment, its adjustment and some basic techniques. Exercises for the horse on the lunge and their goals will be discussed next month.
There are several situations that may deem Lungeing as being the best alternative for exercising your horse. In the early stages of training Lungeing may be used to familiarize your horse with riding equipment. This should only be done for short periods of time and on as large of circle as possible. Young developing horses do not need the stress on the joints that can be caused by lungeing on too small circles, at too high of speeds or for an extended period of time. As your horse becomes familiar with exercise on the lunge this can be a good place to help him learn to set and maintain his own rhythm and tempo. This is also a good place for your youngster to practice his balance during transitions with out the added encumbrance of a rider. Lungeing can also be a valuable tool during the times that you are unable to ride due to illness or injury. You can maintain and even promote your horses’ fitness even when you are unable to be in the saddle. When your horse has suffered the stress of illness or injury Lungeing is a wonderful tool to help him regain his fitness level slowly. Especially in situations where weight bearing could induce recurrences of inflammation to already stressed area. Then of course last but not least you can further your horses’ development, improve the horses’ ability to use his top line and build or rebuild muscle to insure the equal development of both sides of your horse.
Equipment comes in all shapes and sizes. The recommendations made here are mainly a matter of safety for you and your horse. Lunge Lines should be of an appropriate length to allow the horse to be on at least a 15-meter circle, 20 meters being preferable. A meter is 39.37 inches, or slightly more than a yard, 3 feet. The length of an appropriate Lunge Line will be around 30 feet, which would be nearly the radius of a 20-meter circle. The material that the line is made of is important. Lines should be made only of cotton or of a cotton mixture of material. Nylon lines should be avidly avoided. They are dangerous to both you and your horse, as they will not break in the event of an accident. Lunge Lines with a leather buckle or a plain snap for attachment to the horse are best. Lines with chains attached are not advised. Lines with handles built in are fine, but must be used in such a manner as to make sure that the person lungeing will not get caught in it. Lines with a large rubber stopper will give the handler a safe and secure place to grip the line if needed. Handling the line safely and effectively does not happen automatically. Practice gathering the line in large figure of eight loops feeding them alternately from right to left across your palm. If you have a friend you can call on to play horse for you that can be ideal practice for feeding the loops out and gathering them. It is important that the handler learn to keep a constant light tension on the line, never letting droop onto the ground where the horse or the handler could become entangled in it.
Side Reins made of leather with rubber donuts inserted are the best. They have a small amount of give to them, which will encourage your horse to take responsibility in developing the connection to the bit. Solid leather side reins also work well. Leather side reins with elastic inserts can also be used, but are the least preferable of the three, as they tend to stretch too much. Again, as with the Lunge Lines, nylon should be avidly avoided. Considerations should be made if you have a particularly large or small horse to make sure that you choose a Side Rein that will allow you to make appropriate adjustments for your horse. Side Reins must be able to be adjusted long enough to make sure that a large horse will not feel claustrophobic. Side reins that are much too long on a small horse should be avoided, as the excess length may be annoying to both you and the horse.
Lunge Whip’s come in many shapes and sizes, unfortunately most of them are inappropriate. The majority of whips sold being far to short to allow the handler to use them indiscreetly. The other problem is if the whip is long enough to reach the horse on the 20-meter circle it is made of materials that make it too heavy to easily use with one hand. There are some whips made with fiberglass shafts wrapped in nylon that are long enough and light enough to use easily. Measure the whip, it should be at least 7 and meters, or 21+ feet, shaft and lash together. This will enable the user with arm out stretched to easily touch the horse on a 15meter circle. The whip I have found easiest to use is a retractable or telescoping fiberglass whip. The shaft extends out in sections and it has a long lash that can easily reach a horse on a 20-meter circle. Because the shaft is made totally of fiberglass it is very lightweight. It is important with any whip not to lay it on the ground when lungeing. When you are changing direction, beginning or ending a session get use to carrying the whip in your armpit facing backwards. This will eliminate the need to bend over to retrieve the whip, which puts the handler in an awkward situation if the horse should react unexpectedly. A whip can also easily be damaged if left lying on the ground. It is important that the handler takes time to learn to use the whip properly. Go out into the arena or front lawn and set up some cones or drink cans and practice with the whip until you can place the lash just where you want it. No cracking or snapping, just light touches strategically placed. Remember this is a skill that one must be as good at with the left hand as with the right.
The most important aids the handler has when lungeing the horse is not the line or the whip, but his Voice and Body Language. It is critical that the voice and body language confirm one another. The voice and body are used in a manner to reflect the desired results. A quiet stance coupled with a low calm and soothing tone is used to induce a down transition, a quieter tempo or to reestablish the rhythm. An attentive alert stance coupled with an upward voice intonation is used to produce up transitions, increased energy in the gait or to gain the horses’ attention. Delineation between the two must be distinct, as the same word will be used to relate an up transition and a down transition. If the horse is in walk and the handler wants him to trot the pronunciation should be TROT. Use short precise letter sounds with an upward intonation. If the horse is in canter and the handler wants him to trot the pronunciation should be TEEERRROT. Use a long drawl of the letter sounds with a downward intonation.
The use of a surcingle alone or over a saddle can be helpful, but is not a necessity. The rings on the surcingle give the handler more variability in the adjustment of the height of the side reins then when the reins are attached directly to the girth of the saddle. A surcingle may be used alone with or without a pad. Only a well made padded sircingle that is easy to clean should ever be used with out a pad. Every surcingle should be carefully checked as to its fit to make sure it is not putting pressure on the horse spine or withers.
The horse should be tacked in a snaffle bridle with noseband, a saddle and/or surcingle for lungeing. The adjustment of the bridle should be such that the bit sits comfortably in the horse’s mouth. Standing directly in front of the horse pull both cheek pieces of the bridle away from the horses face simultaneously to test for the proper length. When the bit is adjusted correctly there will be 1 to 1 and ½ inches between the face and the cheek pieces when they are pulled away taught. The noseband will be used in the attachment of the Lunge Line so it should be fitted snuggly to prevent rubbing. With the side reins already attached to the saddle and safely hooked over the horses neck we are ready to precede to the lungeing area.
This area should be of appropriate size and be relatively level ground. Footing that provides secure grip, as well as some resiliency is optimal. Once in the area the reins are placed over the horses head and the Lunge Line connected. The best way to connect the line is to run it through the bit ring, up and under the noseband just above the bit ring and return to clip it onto itself. This will eliminate the possibility that the pressure on line might pull the bit out of alignment in the horses’ mouth. Attaching the Lunge Line directly to the bit, under the chin through the bit rings and or over the poll should be avoided.
The side reins should be attached after the reins are carefully organized. To do this, twist the reins together in 3 or 4 rotations under the jaw of the horse. Undo the throatlatch and run it through one side of the twisted reins then reconnect the throatlatch properly. Now with the side reins at an appropriate length connect them to either side of the bit below the rein attachment. The appropriate length will vary from horse to horse. When the horse is familiar with the side reins the beginning length will be such that the horse’s nose is in front of the vertical and the side reins still have a slight droop in them. Once the horse is moved around the circle for a short time, 1 to 2 minutes, just long enough to let him realize what is going to be asked of him the side reins may be shortened such that there is no slack and the horse is required to give in his poll slightly. Some horses may take longer than others to warm up. The side reins should be gradually shortened, 1 to 3 holes at the time, until the desired frame is produced. The general outline will show the horses mouth, point of the shoulder and point of the buttock in alignment with the nose close to the vertical. This relaxed frame will be used in most of the Lungeing work. Only when the horse is well warmed up and stepping forward to the bridle with both hind legs should condensing the frame be considered.
The duration of the Lunge session will vary depending on the reasons for lungeing and the fitness level of the horse. During every session it is important to change the direction frequently. When changing direction the horse should halt out on the circle line and allow the handler to come to him. Then the line is attached on the other side of the bridle and the side reins shortened if desired. The handler then leads the horse forward and around to complete the change of direction. A good rule of thumb is never more than 7 minutes per side. A Lunge session should never begin with a horse that is too wired or tight to listen. If your horse needs to run and buck in order to settle into work allow him to do so in a safe environment. Turning him out in the pasture or arena prior to your work period is optimal. If this is not an option care must be taken not to make him feel too confined in the early stage of the lunge session. Let him loosen and stretch himself adequately on the line before adjusting the side reins shorter. In the early training sessions, or when bringing your horse back from an injury work on the Lunge Line at walk and trot only maybe appropriate. In general though a session should include all three gaits in both directions. Beginning and ending each session at the walk is also a good guideline.
So make sure your equipment and area is safe for you and your horse. Approach your horses training on the Lunge logically and successively. Practice with line, the whip and your voice before you start Lungeing your horse. The more confident you are with the equipment the more comfortable your horse will be with you. Lungeing properly takes time for both you and your horse to learn, but the rewards will be well worth the effort. Good Luck!
Copyright © Garland Farms. All Rights Reserved.
Created and Maintained by Katie Patton.
Please address comments to webmistress@gfdressage.com